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The John Muir Trail (JMT) offers a long list of major passes to challenge the backpacker.  Fortunately, the passes begin easy and gradually become more difficult as the backpacker gets in better condition.  All the routes are beautiful, and all but two (Cathedral Pass and Island Pass) offer world-class vistas.

My favorite pass on the JMT is right in the middle.  It is not highest (that would be Forester Pass at 13,200’) nor the hardest (Glen Pass).  My favorite is Mather Pass.

Mather Pass is the culmination of the long climb from Le Conte Canyon at 8070 feet to 12,100 feet, a whopping 4000-foot ascent.  What makes Mather Pass special is the trail itself.  Leaving the Middle Fork of the Kings River, the trail begins a gradual stroll through the forest, passing many tempting campsites.  Don’t be tempted.  Continue on above timberline to the famed Golden Staircase.  This section of trail is engineered to scale a seemingly unscalable granite face, using switchbacks and stairs.  To many, the Golden Staircase is a rite of passage, a test of will against hill, and a bragging right.  To me, it is spectacular.

The reward at the top of the Golden Staircase is the Palisade Lakes.  Both the Lower and Upper Palisade Lakes offer many excellent campsite options.  The waters of the Palisade lakes is amazingly clear.  The lakes are home to a healthy golden trout population, easily visible from shore.

From the lakes, it is a few long switchbacks to Mather Pass.  Views are breathtaking, both north and south.  You can see Bench Lake and Marjorie Lake to the south with Pinchot Pass behind them.

The descent is down a series of glorious switchbacks into Upper Basin, festooned with tarns and small creeks.  To the east is 14,000 foot Split Mountain, to the west are the granite slopes of Vennacher needle.  The easy walk down is so spectacular you do not want it to end.  Too soon, you must cross the South Fork of the Kings River, which can be either terrifying or carefree, depending on the season.

Really? Are there best or worst campsites on the John Muir Trail (JMT)? All of the trail is spectacular, and would pass as a worst campsite on the JMT is likely a best campsite almost anywhere else. But there are campsites which are relatively better, and some which are relatively not as nice.

Best campsites – Rae Lakes

While everyone has a different opinion, one of the campsites which is on most all favorite lists is Rae Lakes. Rae Lakes is a series of three nearly connected lakes tucked in a glacial valley with Fin Dome bookmarking one end and Painted Lady the other end. The scenery is amazing, fishing is good, swimming is superb, and the camping is outstanding. Because of these attributes, Rae Lakes is a popular place, both for through hikers on the JMT or PCT and for weekend warriors coming in from Sawmill Pass or Kearsarge Pass.

Fortunately, the crowds are easy to avoid. Most backpackers are lazy by nature, and gravitate to the low hanging fruit of Middle Rae Lake, which even has bear boxes and a wilderness ranger station. Instead of joining this mini-city, hike around either of the lakes to the back side. Numerous obvious and hidden sites exist.

Two amazing campsites are on southern end of Middle Rae Lake. As the JMT winds around the lake, look for a scramble trail up slope towards the lake. A nice flat spot awaits you, with unobstructed views of the lake. The second is off the Sixty Lakes Basin Trail towards the lake. Again, perfect views with the bonus of a private swimming bay and beach.

Worst campsites – Tuolumne Meadows

The JMT begins with a relentless climb out of Yosemite Valley, followed by an easy stretch over Cathedral Pass into Tuolumne Meadows. However, most backpackers are feeling pretty sore and miserable by the time they arrive at Tuolumne Meadows. The easiest campsite is the Tuolumne Meadows Campground Backpackers Camp.

Positives include proximity to the store, grill, showers, and restrooms. These are also the negatives, as there is no wilderness experience at all. The Backpackers Campground is crowded into a hillside with sporadically placed picnic tables and bear boxes. As a result, it is a noisy campsite.

Best campsites – Trail Junction ascent

The vast majority of JMT hikers make Guitar Lake their final campsite prior to ascending Mount Whitney and exiting at Whitney Portal. And there is good reason: beautiful lake, right off the trail. And just before summit climb begins. As a result, it can be crowded.

So, stop for a drink, and keep going, for there are two great options yet to come. As the trails rises above Guitar Lake, there are a series of tarns to the right, offering a handful of sandy campsites. Water availability is seasonal. If you are truly adventurous and want a head start on the summit rush, continue up, tackling the switchbacks. Prior to the final switchback, there are a few obvious sandy sites carved in the mountainside with room for one or two tents. Here you will find unobstructed views down Whitney Creek Canyon. No water, meaning you need to tank up at Guitar Lake with enough liquid to last the night, the summit ascent, and the descent to first water coming down from Trail Crest. But is well worth it! You can be on the trail early and on the summit for sunrise with an extra hour of sleep.

Worst campsite – Muir Trail Ranch

Muir Trail Ranch (MTR) is a hiker friendly resupply stop. MTR organizes an impressive hiker box, which is actually twenty buckets organized by product. They also provide a charging station for electronics,
water, and a very limited store. MTR does not provide hikers access to restrooms.

Most hikers pick up their resupply, and hike 400 yards to a cluster of campsites just off the JMT connector trail. These campsites have no ascetic positive, other than being in the middle of a wilderness area.

Instead, backpackers should pick their resupply, and head south 3-4 miles and grab a prime campsite off Piute Creek just inside Kings Canyon National Park.

The John Muir Trail (JMT) is well known around the world for its unparalleled beauty and grandeur.  What is not widely spoken about is the ability of this popular backpacking destination to humble strong and experienced hikers.  The combination of long ascents, high altitude, and isolation from exit points combine to test one’s resolve.

Glen Pass

The JMT has eight major passes over 11,000 feet and several lesser passes.  As the typical hiker progresses from north to south, the passes get higher, steeper, and more exposed.  Forester Pass, at 13,200 feet, gets most of the attention, but its neighbor to the north, Glen Pass, is actually much more of a challenge.

Glen Pass begins in a very quaint manner from the beautiful Rae Lakes, ascending perfect steps formed from granite.  The further trail travels from Rae Lakes, the more rugged the trail becomes.  Soon, the hiker is above tree line, exposed to the relentless Sierra sun and winds.  The condition of the trail deteriorates as the tread steepens and the footing becomes looser.  Early on, the views are captivating and distracting.  As the hiker climbs, the only view is the rough trail immediately in front.  A final traverse puts the hiker on the knife like ridge of Glen Pass.  If the winds are not howling and it is not a summer snowstorm, enjoy the view, as the descent is no easier.

Glen Pass descends to the south very steeply, with loose rock and extreme exposures.  A slip here will definitely end the trip.  The descent is better described as a scramble, and you will likely be searching for handholds.  Believe it or not, sure footed mules cross this pass daily.

The obvious challenges of Glen Pass are compounded early season and in heavy snow seasons, such as 2018-19.

Glen Pass makes all the other passes seem easy, and after this, Forester Pass is a bit of a letdown.

Muir Trail Ranch to Evolution Lake

The climb out of Muir Trail Ranch (MTR) is not the steepest, not the longest, section of the JMT. It may argued that is the prettiest section of the JMT.  The challenge here is the load the typical hiker will be carrying.

MTR is a resupply stop for the majority of JMT backpackers.  Supplies that have been shipped here are picked up and the backpacker is equipped to complete the balance of the JMT, normally about ten days.  Assuming two pounds of food per day per hiker, backpacks just added twenty pounds.  MTR is low on the San Joaquin River at 7,800 feet, and Evolution Lake is at 10,800 feet, setting up a 3,000 foot climb with backpacks that are filled to capacity.

The climb begins gently, following the river, but 6.5 miles it splits away, following Evolution Creek.  The climb steepens and is relentless.  Fortunately, the cascades are amazing and the scenery is jaw dropping.  Which is what your jaw s doing anyhow, as you are gasping for oxygen in the rapidly thinning air.

The destination at Evolution Lake is well worth the efforts.  Many exposed campsites are near the lake shore.  On the north end of the lake, there are a couple premium sites tucked in white park pines and protected from adverse weather.

Mount Whitney Descent

Now this is sure to be controversial.  After summiting Mount Whitney, hikers retrieve their stowed backpacks at Trail Junction, climb the final insulting 200 vertical feet to Trail Crest at 13,658 feet, and begin the long decent to Trail Camp.  Yes, it is all downhill.  Yes, your backpack is practically empty as you have consumed all the food you picked up at MTR.  But, the descent is 99 switchbacks.  And, it is all exposed to the sun and winds.  A short section has climber cables to mitigate the deadly exposure.

At Trail Camp, you think the worst is behind and you can already taste the Whitney Portal burger and cold beer.  Unfortunately, you are now beginning the longest 7 miles on the JMT.  This is not relaxing hiking.  Footing is often loose, there are immeasurable steps, and there are several small stream crossings.

Miles turn into hours, and it feels no closer to the trail’s end.  After three weeks on the JMT, the mind is focused burgers, beers, beds, and baths.  Long, gradual switchbacks are followed be more long, gradual senseless switchbacks, making what should be a quick decent into a long plodding march.   Suddenly, when all hope is gone, a flash of a reflection from a windshield and the final traverse takes you into Whitney Portal.

Hitchhiking from Whitney Portal to Lone Pine is a cinch, as most day visitors are aware of the need for rides.